Tuesday, January 15, 2013

The Katniss Sort-of Oxford (Wearing History's Smooth Sailing Top)

This shirt is more or less finished. The only thing left would be the buttons- and if I ever decide to properly finish the collar.

Over the summer I made one casual top and one nicer top that I'm not happy with at all- both out of DH's old shirts. Both were based around Collete Pattern's Sorbetto but one was a blousy V neck, short sleeve thing (it was an instance of the material not matching the pattern) and the other was a cute beachy tank with draw stringwaist (I actually think I'm supposed to be making my mom a version). Neither was fitted and I have a tendancy to look a bit pregnant in non-fitted tops*  So I embarked on making a fitted top.

Using the same pattern as the trousers- Wearing History's Smooth Sailing- I mocked up a muslin (again, out of one of DH's old shirts)* and it was snug but reasonably flattering. For whatever reason the actual fashion fabric (a blue oxford I bought because it looked a bit like the fabric from Katniss' reaping dress) came out much larger- in the bust even- and I had to fiddle. I think traced a size too large. I'm not terribly embarrassed by the inside for this one but the oxford sheds horribly at cut edges so there's some blue fringe going on.

I am however divided about the buttons. The pattern called for 1/2" or so, and I think these are a smidge over. I feel like they make it look too home-ec. Some people on facebook suggested hiding the buttons but I'm not sure if I would feel like a blueberry then. I'm considering 1/3-1/2" shell or shell-like buttons now. Thoughts?

Next time, I think I'm taking the shoulders in a bit

Thoughts on the Pattern (so far):
- It would be helpful to have a tailoring book nearby. I could not figure out how I was supposed to properly finish the collar or the cuffs, so I winged it. The cuffs look pretty decent
- The measurement chart is still true to size, just fair warning it's supposed to be tucked into high waisted trousers and be a bit fuller at the top, so keep that in mind.
- If you have a longer torso and plan to wear them with modern rise jeans you will want to wear something underneath or lengthen the hem (this is with a 1" hem, I love my blind hem foot). The bottom button is where my jeans (moderate rise) end.
- The button placement is pretty good, I'm just paranoid about gaping so I used Sunni's tutorial but modified it so instead of going from neck-shoulder to apex, I went top button placement on pattern (ignoring the top two since I wanted the notched collar) to apex. For me it was 2-2 1/4" between each button.
- The underarms are nice and high which I like, but if you aren't used to, or expecting that, then it may feel weird
- I didn't experience the tight forearm that others have mentioned, this may be the cutting-wrong-size I mentioned early but I think I could go down a sleeve size and it would still fit?

I did play around with button placement a bit. The gold tailor tacks are free hand placement while purple are measured.

So in all, it's comfortable, DH says it's cute (without prompting- he also said it looks like the reaping dress and said I should add it to my costume list) so it will probably get some wear later in the semester or over the summer. DH says contrary but I feel like my waist disappears a bit, so I'm on the fence about that part.

*I've learned not to wear such tops around my hometown. People ask questions or give not so subtly hints and I'm too polite to give them the stink eye.

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