Thursday, January 3, 2013

70’s Zoot Suit Pants (Wearing History's Smoth Sailing Trousers)

Using Wearing History’s Smooth Sailing Pattern (working on the top currently)

I know the name makes no sense but that's the best I can come up with right now.
I had surprisingly little alterations to do with this pattern. The directions are clear and the only fiddling I had was with the waist band. I’m contemplating making a pajama version even, they are just so comfortable. Also, I accidentally put the zipper on the wrong side, oh well.

But I still had problems:
  1. I hand stitched it (did this spring before graduation so no machine yet)
  2. My 1st version was out of broadcloth (why????) so it was completely see through.
  3. My 2nd version was out of a weird herringbone (knit?) with fantastic drape came out large enough that DH could squeeze into them in a very unbecoming fashion
I want to find a pair of schooling breeches in this pattern/color- would look nice with my current boot/ half-chap combo.*
Fabric can be purchased from DenverFabrics here**

I eventually took in my 2nd version so my only complaint now is that they drape so much that they lost the lovely tailored look and look more like zoot suit pants. I’ve lost a bit of weight since I first made them so at least the toosh isn’t quite so tight.

Don't ask what my feet are doing... I really don't know. Pretend it's to show off the cuff.

I then remade the pattern in blue gab for a Fourth of July dance. I hate, hate, HATE the hem- so incredibly messy. Eventually I'm going back and adding a large cuff to hide all that mess. But that's for a costuming entry. I have grand-ish-sort of plans for it- but I might throw it out for the Fairy Godmother costume (sic 'em glitter wand!)

Things I love about this pattern:
- The hip-waist ratio is near perfect for me
- The instructions are nice and clear (I think someone with basic garment construction experience would be fine, this was my first pair of pants)
- The crotch is "vintage" without being a diaper look
- Plenty of toosh room without being excessive
- Fits just at the right spot I don't need to do a swayback adjustment
- I love the front releases, I just love them
- The hem swishes in a fun way while dancing, it's just the right size without going into bellbottom territory

Other Thoughts:
- You may need access to a search engine or sewing text at times. Not having trouser sewing experience had me pondering a term once or twice, but this still wasn't bad (for those who don't like to look things up, Colette Patterns have a glossary in the back of their pattern pamphlets if memory serves and they came out with a trouser pattern recently)
- The pattern is sized in length for someone of average height. I took off 6" or so and am in 2" heels, but I'm also 5'-5'1" depending on the day.
- I really want to try these in a nice suit weight grey wool or wool-blend.
- I tried interfacing and not interfacing the waistband, I think I prefer not

* I'm riding again- well I am trying out two different instructors next week. Slowly putting together riding/athletic gear, I don't know how I made it through BUGWB, nothing fits properly.
**I am merely providing the link here for reference. I recommend neither for or against purchasing fabric from them. I haven't found a favorite fabric source.

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